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Home»Skin»Why are skin care products that seem to have the same strength so different?
Skin

Why are skin care products that seem to have the same strength so different?

Andrea R. BarnesBy Andrea R. BarnesOctober 7, 2022No Comments3 Mins Read
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dr Irwin: What is the difference between Refissa Tretinoin Cream USP 0.05% and Tretinoin Cream USP 0.05% by Perrigo? I’ve been using Refissa for years but now I’m having a problem getting it due to a backlog. I was wondering if I can use Perrigos Tretinoin Cream USP 0.05% instead? Thank you Amy

Some days I think we all need a chemistry degree to really understand skincare product labels. I love your question because it really gets back on topic.

To answer your question, if you really love Refissa (Tretinoin 0.05%) I doubt you’ll love the Perrigo-Tretinion because the base is so much thinner and formulated more for oily skin. Refissa had an almost ointment-like base and was great for dry skin. For those of you who don’t know, Tretinion is just a concentrated version of retinol.

There are many tretinoin products on the market, and they come in gels, lotions, and creams. However, the lines between these different vehicles are often blurred. You may have a lotion-like gel or a very thick lotion that acts more like a cream. The same applies to many other products.

Does it really matter? After watching patients and I struggle to replace a favorite product that has now been discontinued, I think it will. Why? Continue reading.

Why does the base or vehicle of the product make such a difference:

  • If you’re looking for a product that works for dry skin, look for the top 5-6 ingredients like squalene, natural oils, shea butter, and even petroleum jelly.
  • If you want a product suitable for oilier skin, look for products that contain more hyaluronic acid, non-irritating alcohols, aloe vera, and similar in the top 5-6 ingredients listed.
  • The ingredients most likely to cause skin irritation are preservatives, fragrances, propylene glycol, lanolin, and some alcohols.
  • The base also influences the bioavailability of the active substance. This tretinoin 0.05% may be slightly stronger or weaker depending on what is put into it; You really can’t predict that as a consumer.
  • Natural oils and dry oils are all the rage now, but despite the marketing, they can clog pores in susceptible individuals.
  • Creams are perhaps the hardest to evaluate without actually buying them, as some are more gel-like. Some are light and easily absorbing, others are medium weight and some are very dense and more occlusive.
  • Do samples help? They can help you determine if you are allergic to it, if the scent is right for you, and if the consistency is right for you. Otherwise they are not very helpful. It takes 30-90 days to see if a product is really making a difference in the quality of your skin. We all have drawers of this and I would vote for a cleanup and disposal session twice a year.

Hope that helps!
dr Brandith Irwin, MD
founder of SkinTour & MadisonMD skin care
Follow my skin tips and keep traveling Instagram!



Care products Skin strength
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Andrea R. Barnes
Andrea R. Barnes

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