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When you think of the world’s most expensive fragrance, you probably don’t think of tree fungus. But there you will find the origins of Oudthe fragrant core of Aquilaria trees and one of the most expensive commodities in the world.
Like many rare and precious materials, oud takes a long time to develop naturally. It’s not something that can be easily planted and picked like so many other fragrances. Oud needs time to “cook”, so to speak. Certain natural circumstances must come together for it to form in the Aquilaria tree, an evergreen species native to Southeast Asia. When the trees are damaged by external and environmental factors, the resin they produce to protect their core turns the heartwood into oud over time.
Meet the experts:
What is Oud?
“Natural oud, the fragrance (essential oil) is created when a certain fungus settles on an Aquilaria tree,” explains Geza Schoen, founder and perfumer of fragrance brand Escentric Molecules. “A reaction creates a resin that slowly embeds itself in the wood, creating agarwood known as oud, which is then steeped and developed into an oil using a distillation and evaporation method.”
Vietnam in particular has a remarkable history of oud harvesting. During the Vietnam War, the US dropped many bombs on the country’s forests, hitting and wounding large numbers of wild Aquilaria trees and ushering in a new generation of oud. It can take several years for this heartwood to develop a desirable aroma profile, either distilled to oil or chopped down for smoking. It is warm, musky, animalistic and slightly sweet – a deeply rich and complex scent that lingers long after it has been applied or burned.
So what does oud smell like?
“Any version [of oud] has its own olfactory quirk, ranging from herbal to woody,” explains Olivia Jan, Senior Perfumer at Givaudan, via email, detailing the regional differences of agarwood trees. “In other countries there are different variations like aquilaria crassna from Laos and othersquilaria sinensis in China.”
The first time I experienced oud in a fragrance was in my early days as a beauty editor, around 2014. I was sent a tiny vial of Dead Of Night, a perfume oil from an indie brand called Strangelove. The thing wasn’t much bigger than a D battery; I even inquired if this was just a sample and was told it was in fact the full size which cost $500 (at the time). whoops Though small, just a speck of the oil gave off a strong intoxicating scent unlike anything I had smelled. It was like scorched sunlight, golden and amber; but it was also a bit earthy and damp, like wet earth after rain. It was a mysterious and alluring scent, something I couldn’t name but couldn’t forget either. I wasn’t sure what I was smelling and I wasn’t sure if I liked it, but I couldn’t stop smelling it on myself and was trying to figure it out. Dead Of Night was a fragrance that sparked my overall fragrance curiosity, something that will become a lifelong hobby.
Why is oud so important?
“Oud is traditionally known in the Middle East as black gold, as it is a precious ingredient that comes from one of the rarest and most expensive woods in the world,” says Frank Voelkl, head perfumer at Firmenich. It is extremely popular in the Middle East – in fact, it is unpopular; I would say it’s a way of life. Known as the “wood of the gods”, oud has spiritual significance. Its aroma is part of Muslim culture – the agarwood shavings are burned as incense in homes and places of worship, and to scent clothes. It is often offered to guests visiting one’s home as an aromatic refreshment. “In the region, oud often takes center stage and plays a key role in conveying an alluring story in a fragrance,” explains Jan, noting that there has been an increased demand for oud notes lately. “The influence of Middle Eastern fragrances had a huge impact on the market.”